SOUTH TYROL WINES
Happy to share with you the experience in Alto Adige thanks to the invitation ofAlto AdigeWines.
In the article I leave you the links of the hotel, restaurants and highly recommended wineries where you can also make your purchases online!
Not being a wine expert (but I love them so much!) I will start from the Hotel where I stayed, then I will share all the experiences in the restaurants and with the Wineries, so that you can take notes and plan your holidays/weekends.
The base of the tour was theParkhotel Mondscheinin Bolzano. Located in the heart of Bolzano, next to the pedestrian area, it was recently reopened after a careful and elegant renovation. I found it, surrounded by a lush and suggestive park (not wonderful in the city center) where you can have everything from breakfast to aperitif and home to a very well-kept and renowned Bistro. The rooms are large and completely renovated with all the comforts ... even the yoga mat.
The first evening from Bolzano we went up to Tesimo for dinner at the restaurantZum Lowenwhere the starred Chef Anna Matscher and her staff prepared an incredible menu tasted in the company of the producers of the cellars:S.Michele Appiano Winery,Peter ZemmerAndColterenzio Winery.
They tell us that Bolzano, one of the warmest cities in Italy, offers a good temperature range at night, which is favorable for wine production. Since the 1990s, a process of change in production from red to white wines has begun. Today, production is 86 out of 100 white wines and 14 red wines, one of which is Schiava. Alto Adige is the third smallest region for production after Liguria and Valle d'Aosta. The most important red grape variety is Pinot Noir.
Here is the menu of Chef Anna Matscher (who is also 'self-taught'):
Char tartare, green apple, sorrel, smoked milk foam and wild herb sponge
Shiitake and Oyster Mushroom Stew, Wild Garlic Oil and Schuttelbrot
Nocini and roe deer ragù, celeriac, cornelian cherries, cocoa beans and quark gnocchi
Aromatic herb soup, pineapple sorbet and pineapple sage and blackberry and red basil sorbet.
On the second day we visited theAlois Lageder Estatein Magré. The family estate founded in 1823 is managed by the sixth generation.
In the estate a skilfully managed o constantly dialogues with the kitchen. A biodynamic company where harmony is the key.
Consider that in small periods of the year even animals can graze among the vines, before the buds form, releasing manure and enriching the soil. Every two rows different species are planted, to avoid monoculture, such as cereals, mustard or legumes and the following year they repeat the same in another row. Pinot Grigio is the most cultivated variety.
The Lageder winery is the largest private winery in Alto Adige; one million bottles are produced here each year and in 2024 they will reach the coveted milestone of Organic Wines.
Their wines reflect the diversity of Alto Adige. The tastings take place in suggestive and well-kept environments. The harvest will probably be brought forward from the second week of September to the first week of August due to climate changes. The gastronomic wines do not prevail over the food, they do not dominate. Freshness is always sought after.
The Paradais restaurant, not always open (check the times and opening hours, but go there!), delighted us with a vegetarian menu, products from their garden or zero-mile products from trusted restaurants.
Beetroot, “blau blau” cheese, fig dressing
Lemon risotto, capers
Tarte Tatin with Tropea onion
In the afternoon the visit to theGirlan Winery(historical cellar of 1923) of Cornaiano, a historic town for its vineyards. As many as 13/14 cooperative cellars with over 5,000 winemakers.
Suggestive visit to the century-old pergola vineyards that produce smaller bunches with thicker skin. The harvest is at the end of September, beginning of October. No herbicides are left in the vineyard and for now, fortunately, the drought is not creating particular problems.
Finally the tasting of Schiava wine, a native grape variety of Alto Adige, which in the past represented over 80% of the wine production of Alto Adige (therefore red wine). Nowadays it is completely overturned, in fact, those neophytes like me, when you think of this territory to white wine.
The dinner took place in Sirmiano atGasthof Restaurant Jager, in the middle of nature.
Nature that we also find in the menu served in the company of the producers of theMeran Winery,Sallegg CastleAndBrunnenhof; perfect wines from aperitif to dessert, beautiful and refined labels.
The menu of the evening:
Rye bread tortelli on cheese and truffle fondue
Saddle of venison celery/chanterelles/wild broccoli
Valrhona chocolate and berries (accompanied by a special Moscato rosa di Castelsallegg, born thanks to a love story. The vine brought as a wedding gift by the Sicilian groom to Princess Maria Raineria, ancestor of Count Kuenburg, owner of the winery. Too bad it is not for sale, the production of only 500 bottles).
On the third and final day we went to Val Sarentino to Gregor Wenter of theBad Schorgau.
A magical place where herbs communicate with the kitchen and heal. Where you can reconnect with nature, thanks also to the Spa, the spring, the circular economy (they also produce their own dishes and cosmetics). Where their thinking about the food of the future goes hand in hand with sustainability and zero selfishness.
A cuisine based on fermentation and a lot of research to prevent diseases at the table etc.
In addition to trying our hand at a very interesting cooking class, we enjoyed an excellent lunch and tasted the wines of theCellars of the Isarco Valley,Taschlerhof, Kofererhofwhich are 8% of the production of Alto Adige, 50 wineries in 11 municipalities. The typicality is the altitude (production is also at 1000 m). In this valley, once considered the south of Austria, they produced 90% of red wines. Thanks to the large temperature range, semi-aromatic wines are produced, for all meals, fresh and drinkable.
All of Alto Adige offers landscapes, products, wines, sports and a great welcome. A territory where you hope to return soon.
